Last year's arrival at Tluang Khua was unforgettable. As the first white-skinned person to visit this very remote village, I was greeted with the firing of a shotgun, a garland of flowers, a long reception line, and traditional Chin dancing. I also recall the village tradition of publicly broadcasting through loudspeakers a reading of the entire Bible during December nights, a devotion that allowed me little sleep at the chief's house. This year, thankfully, they took one night off...at my request.